Département 03
Allier
Vichy, castles, forests: the refined north of Auvergne.
Allier surprises people who expect nothing from it. No volcanoes here, but Vichy, queen of the spa towns and UNESCO-listed, the Tronçais forest and its century-old oaks, a density of castles inherited from the Dukes of Bourbon, and a wild Val d'Allier protected as a nature reserve. This is northern Auvergne, elegant and green.
You come for a spa cure or a wellness weekend in Vichy, to walk under the tall oaks of Tronçais, for the Bourbonnais castle route, or for Moulins and its Triptych of the Master of Moulins. Three pocket-sized towns, and a truly gentle way of life.
We've sorted the department by what you're in the mood for: Vichy and its spas, castles and towns of art, forest and nature, where to eat, where to sleep. Each section points you to the places we've picked.
Vichy, queen of the spa towns
Vichy lines up the smartest things spa culture has produced: the Parc des Sources and its galleries, an Art Nouveau opera house, the Halle des Sources, and one of the largest thermal spas in Europe. The town, UNESCO-listed along with the Great Spa Towns of Europe, can be explored on foot, between parks and Belle Époque architecture.
Castles and towns of art in the Bourbonnais
The cradle of the Dukes of Bourbon, Allier has a rare density of castles: Bourbon-l'Archambault, Lapalisse, Billy. Moulins, the former ducal capital, is home to the Triptych of the Master of Moulins and the Centre national du costume de scène (the national stage costume centre). Charroux is one of Les Plus Beaux Villages de France (the most beautiful villages in France).
The Tronçais forest and nature
The Tronçais forest, one of the finest oak forests in Europe, can be explored on foot or by bike around its ponds. Further south, the Val d'Allier rolls out a river that is still wild, protected as a nature reserve, where plenty of birds nest.
Where to eat well
The Bourbonnais has its own cooking: pâté aux pommes de terre (potato pie), pompe aux grattons (a brioche with pork cracklings), and the Saint-Pourçain wines, from one of the oldest vineyards in France. Vichy adds a scene of carefully run restaurants, Vichy pastilles (the local mint sweets) included.
Where to sleep
A spa hotel in Vichy, a château guesthouse in the Bourbonnais, a cabin by one of the Tronçais ponds: Allier takes good care of its guests. For a spa cure or a spa weekend, stay in Vichy; for nature, head for Tronçais.
When to go
Vichy and the castles can be visited all year round. Spring and autumn show the Tronçais forest at its best (the oaks in October, especially). In summer, the Val d'Allier and the ponds offer swimming and cool air. Winter stays mild compared with the mountain departments.
How long to stay
A weekend for Vichy (town, spa, parks). Add a day for Tronçais and one for the castle route and Moulins. Three to four days to see it all at an easy pace.
Getting there
Allier is the most accessible department in Auvergne: Vichy and Moulins are on the Paris-Clermont train line, and the A71 motorway crosses the department. A car helps for the castles and the Tronçais forest, which are more spread out.
Places to see in Allier
Villages · Charroux
Charroux
A former fortified town in the Bourbonnais, known for its mustard and its medieval lanes.
Nature reserves · Meaulne-Vitray
Forêt de Tronçais
An oak forest of nearly 11,000 hectares, replanted under Colbert for the royal navy. Lakes, morning mist, the silence of a cathedral.
Spas and thermal baths · Vichy
Thermes Les Dômes Vichy
Under its great dome of flambé-glazed stoneware, Vichy's Belle Époque spa: cures for rheumatology and digestive disorders.
Questions about Allier
What can you do in Vichy over a weekend?
Half a day for the Parc des Sources, the Halle des Sources and the Belle Époque architecture; half a day at the thermal spa; the rest for the banks of the Allier and the opera house. Vichy is very easy to do on foot.
Where can you walk in the Tronçais forest?
Around the Saint-Mayeul crossroads and the remarkable oaks (Stebbing, Carré), or on a loop around the Étang de Saint-Bonnet. Waymarked, flat trails, perfect on foot or by bike, and suitable for families.
Is Allier part of Auvergne?
Yes. Allier (03) is one of the four departments of historic Auvergne, along with Puy-de-Dôme, Cantal and Haute-Loire. It's the northern part, gentler and greener, with no volcanoes but rich in castles and thermal waters.