Château des Ducs de Bourbon

It has overlooked Montluçon since the 15th century. The Château des Ducs de Bourbon, completed by Louis II de Bourbon and his sons, has served as just about everything over the years: lodgings, courthouse, performance venue, café, barracks. After a long renovation, it has reopened as a local history museum.

The route takes in four rooms on the upper floors, each designed as a chapter: the natural setting of the upper Cher valley (geology, archaeology), Montluçon from the Middle Ages to the Revolution, the fortified town, then the industrial boom of the basin. Allow a good hour. Full price €6.50, reduced €4, free for under-6s.

Good to know: the instruments often associated with the château (hurdy-gurdies, accordions) can actually be seen at the MuPop next door, the popular music museum. A combined ticket is available, at €12.

Our take, frankly: the view from the esplanade over the rooftops and the Cher is worth the climb on its own. Inside, it's clear and educational, a good way to understand where the town comes from. Then carry on on foot to the half-timbered houses, just below.