Vichy-Bellerive Racecourse

Bellerive-sur-Allier, left bank, just opposite Vichy: 53 hectares of tracks along the Allier. Racing here is nothing new. The first meeting dates back to 22 August 1875, on the initiative of Baron de Veauce. The grandstand was put up in 1895, in the heart of the Belle Époque, and it has kept its look.

The season runs from May to the end of September: around forty meetings a year, trot and gallop, with Quinté+ races and summer evening meetings where the atmosphere builds up on the final straight. Entry is free for under-18s, and the adult rate stays modest. Check the calendar and prices on coursesvichy.fr before you come.

Three food outlets open on race days: a snack bar, a brasserie and a panoramic restaurant overlooking the track. For the curious, there are even sulky taster rides, to get a feel for what the drivers go through.

Our take, frankly: it's a simple, inexpensive family outing, especially on an evening meeting. Arrive a little early to see the horses in the parade ring, a few metres from you.