Belle Époque thermal suite in Vichy, with its decor preserved
Top5 April 20264 min read

A weekend in Vichy: thermal baths, pastilles, parks

We take you to Vichy for a simple weekend: thermal baths in the morning, pastilles at midday, cycling in the afternoon.

By Claire B.

Allier and Bourbonnais contributor

Vichy is a UNESCO town, a spa town that works, and a gateway to the Bourbonnais. Here is the weekend plan we recommend to our city-dwelling friends in search of real relaxation.


The pitch

Vichy has reinvented itself. On 24 July 2021, it joined UNESCO World Heritage as one of the eleven Great Spa Towns of Europe. And today it is a genuine weekend destination for 30 to 45-year-olds looking for serious relaxation.

Here is how to go about it, over 2 days.

Friday evening: arrival and a stroll

You arrive by train (3 hours from Paris, station right in the centre) or by car. You drop your bag at the hotel (recommendation: Aletti Palace, the institution opposite the Opera, double room from €90 a night in 2026, €105 from 1 May to 30 September 2026; more places to stay in our guide to where to stay in Vichy).

Aperitif in the Parc des Sources: the promenade gallery designed in 1898 by the ironworker Émile Robert runs all the way round it, and close by, on the place de la Source-de-l'Hôpital, the bandstand designed in 1902 by Lucien Woog. The park has just come out of a major renovation completed in 2025, and it has become really pleasant.

Dinner: La Table d'Antoine, 8 rue Burnol (cooking with Japanese influences, entirely homemade, from fresh, local, seasonal produce) or Bouillon des Artistes (homemade French classics, a stone's throw from the Opera).

Saturday: the thermal morning

Head for the Thermes les Dômes, open in 2026 from 8 June to 12 December. They offer half-day packages of treatments with Vichy thermal water, with access to the relaxation area for the half-day: sauna, hammam, whirlpool bath, and the thermal-water pool during the open slots. Access from age 16. The package is booked through the baths' reservations department. Another option: the Célestins Spa Thermal, 111 boulevard des États-Unis, offers a day Pass Thermal Spa.

For purists: the Source Célestins is still accessible. You drink a glass of water there (free), naturally bicarbonated, coming out at between 20 and 22°C. It's an experience.

Saturday lunchtime: pastilles and the covered market

Head for the Grand Marché de Vichy, the town's covered market (place Pierre-Victor-Léger): local producers, cheesemongers, Bourbonnais charcuterie makers. Pick up something for a picnic lunch on the grass (sandwiches, terrines, fruit tart).

Then the Confiserie Moinet, 4-6 rue Source de l'Hôpital: the same family has run it since 1852, and it's where you find the pastille du Bassin de Vichy. It comes in aniseed, lemon, orange and mint: taste them all, you'll be surprised.

Saturday afternoon: cycling along the Allier

The Via Allier runs as a greenway around Vichy, between Billy and Saint-Yorre, along the river. Rent a bike, standard or electric, from Vivélo, place de la Gare (closed on Sunday in 2026), and head off towards Saint-Yorre.

The Allier is wild, the banks are clean, you meet few people. It's probably the best weekend activity in Vichy.

Saturday evening: opera or dinner

Vichy has an opera house, inaugurated on 2 June 1901 with Verdi's Aida: an Art Nouveau auditorium in gold and ivory tones, restored to its original appearance in 1995, which hosts performances all year round.

Otherwise, back to the table: whichever of Friday's two restaurants you haven't tried yet.

Sunday: Tronçais forest

Set course for the Tronçais state forest, by car: nearly 10,600 hectares, a prestigious oak forest awarded the Forêt d'Exception label in May 2018. You set off to discover the remarkable oaks, the Chêne Carré, the Stebbing, the Pilier. In the Futaie Colbert II, with oaks two centuries old, a walk of about an hour (1 km) starts from the Rond de Richebourg. In autumn, the colours are unreal.

For lunch, in Saint-Bonnet-Tronçais, the restaurant Le Tronçais occupies a former manor house (maison de maître) on the edge of the Étang de Tronçais. In 2026, it serves lunch on Friday, Saturday and Sunday, from 12:00 to 13:30.

Frequently asked questions

The FAQ

Can you do Vichy without a car?

The centre, yes (it's compact), but for Tronçais or the springs around, you need a car.

Vichy with children?

Yes: the Stade aquatique de Bellerive-sur-Allier (40-metre slide, leisure pool, paddling pool), and the greenway sections of the Via Allier, between Billy and Saint-Yorre, for cycling as a family. The PAL, a zoo and theme park, is linked to Vichy bus station by a coach service.

Where to drink Vichy water without paying a thing?

At the Célestins spring, boulevard John Kennedy: tasting is free, and the spring is open every day in 2026.

How much does the weekend cost?

It all depends on the hotel and the treatments. In 2026, a double room at the Aletti Palace starts at €90 a night (€105 from 1 May to 30 September). On the free side: the Célestins spring, the Parc des Sources and the bandstand are open to all.

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Signed by

Claire B.

Allier and Bourbonnais contributor

Vichy (03)

A pharmacist, I've lived in Vichy for fifteen years. The Allier is my patch: the Forêt de Tronçais in autumn, the Saint-Pourçain vineyards on Saturdays, the Bourbonnais castles on Sundays. On Travel in Auvergne, I pick the restaurants and places to stay by hand before recommending them, otherwise there's no point.

See Claire's profile →

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