Cascades de Chiloza

It isn't a single fall, but a series of waterfalls following one another over about a kilometre along the Couze Pavin, below Besse. The river runs between beeches and conifers, leaps from ledge to ledge, and carves giants' kettles (the famous oules) into the black lava. Each waterfall has its name: the Saut de Bec, the Cascade de la Reine, the Caverne, the Chaudrons.

You get there on foot from the historic centre of Besse, in front of the church: a loop of about 6 km waymarked in yellow, allow a good two hours. To be quicker, a round trip of about 45 minutes starts from the recycling centre, less pretty but efficient.

The path runs alongside the Couze and stays rough: roots, smooth rocks, mud. Good walking boots are essential, and give it a clear miss in rain or snow, it is far too slippery.