Le Marius Hotel

Lac d'Aydat is the biggest natural lake in Auvergne: 65 hectares born from a lava flow that dammed the Veyre valley, at the foot of the Puy de la Vache. Le Marius sits on boulevard du Lac, two minutes from the shore.

Just nine rooms, renovated and rated 3 stars, with a view of the lake or the garden depending on which one you take. 160 or 180 cm beds, refitted bathrooms, free WiFi and parking out front, a locked bike room on request. Access is by digital code 24 hours a day, handy if you arrive late after a day's hiking. Downstairs, a bar and the in-house restaurant, leaning towards Italian flavours.

The hotel holds the Clef Verte label, which suits the place: the walk round the lake is 5.5 km, the water sports base hires out pedalos and canoes in summer, and you are 25 minutes from Clermont, at the foot of the Chaîne des Puys.

Our take, frankly: a small, no-frills place, well located, perfect as a base camp for two or three nights among the volcanoes without sleeping in town. Allow around €75 to €95 a night depending on the season, check before booking.