Auvergne with a dog
Travelling in Auvergne with a dog takes a little preparation: a gîte that accepts pets (Gîtes de France has a "pets allowed" filter) and hikes chosen to avoid the grazing areas on the summer pastures. With those two things sorted, the region turns out to be largely dog-friendly.
Here are our practical ideas for heading to Auvergne with your dog, by category. We've added the precautions that make the difference in the mid-mountains: summer heat, herds and their guardian dogs, ticks, vipers, river and lake water.
Dog-friendly hikes by département
Auvergne is largely open to dogs on a lead, but dogs are not allowed on some routes, such as the big 10 km loop around Lac Pavin starting from Pertuyzat (the short walk around the lake, though, stays open to them). Here are our safe bets.
Puy de Dôme via the sentier des Muletiers (Puy-de-Dôme). The great classic. From the Col de Ceyssat: 1.9 km and 365 m of ascent up switchbacks, allow 50 minutes going up. Dogs must be kept on a lead. In July and August, avoid the hot hours.
Banne d'Ordanche (Massif du Sancy). A 9 km loop (3 hours) from Murat-le-Quaire; a staircase, off the loop, climbs to the summit (1,515 m) and its orientation table. Dogs must be kept on a lead. From mid-May to the end of October, a flock of ewes and its guardian dog occupy the area: go around it, keeping well away.
Lac Pavin via the discovery trail (Besse-et-Saint-Anastaise). The trail around the lake takes about an hour to walk, with your dog on a lead. Swimming, however, is not allowed in Lac Pavin, for you or for your dog: the water is for looking at, the trail is for walking.
Plateau de Gergovie. An easy 3.5 km loop (1 hour 30) on the historic plateau, with views of the Puy de Dôme and the Chaîne des Puys. Dogs must be kept on a lead, because of the grazing herds.
Puy Mary via the Pas de Peyrol (Cantal). Between the Pas de Peyrol pass and the summit (1,783 m), the path is laid out as concrete steps. The loop that climbs up from Mandailles goes through this stretch, and dogs are not recommended there during the summer grazing season. Avoid it in the hot hours of July and August.
Plomb du Cantal from Le Lioran (Cantal). At Le Lioran, the Plomb du Cantal cable car accepted dogs on a lead, at no extra charge, during summer 2026, a season that closed on 13 September. In a few minutes, it takes you up to the roof of the Cantal, at 1,855 m.
Forêt de Tronçais (Allier). One of the finest oak forests in Europe, with shady, flat trails, perfect for dogs that don't cope well with heat. Ideal in summer when the Sancy is baking.
Places to stay that accept dogs
The Gîtes de France Auvergne network has a very handy "pets allowed" filter.
Gîtes de France Puy-de-Dôme, pet filter. When you book, go for a 3 épis or 4 épis rating (the network's grading, in ears of wheat), with an enclosed garden.
Camping Cévéo Le Domaine du Lac Chambon (Murol). Dogs accepted, including in the rentals, for an extra charge. Direct access to the lake; dogs are not allowed on the beaches, though. Open until 30 October 2026.
Camping le Mouriol (Salers, Cantal). Pets accepted, at 7 route du Puy-Mary, 800 m from the shops of Salers.
Restaurants and terraces with your dog
Village bistros. Salers, Murol, Besse, Saint-Flour, Le Puy-en-Velay: before you settle on a terrace with your dog, ask the staff first.
Lakes where your dog is welcome, lake by lake
Several lakes in Auvergne accept dogs. The rule that comes up almost everywhere: the walk around the lake is on a lead, and dogs are not allowed on the sandy beach. Here are the details, lake by lake, with what is really allowed.
Lac d'Aubusson d'Auvergne (Puy-de-Dôme). At the leisure area, your dog is allowed on a lead, and not allowed on the beach.
Lac Chambon (Murol). The walk around the lake (3.7 km, 1 hour 30) is done with your dog on a lead, which is compulsory because of the grazing herds. Dogs are not allowed on either of the two beaches, on the Murol side or the Chambon side.
Lac d'Aydat. Pets are not allowed on the beach or in the water, under penalty of a second-class fine. The walk around the lake (6.5 km, 1 hour 45, waymarked in blue) is done with your dog on a lead, which is compulsory because of the grazing herds.
Lac Pavin (Besse-et-Saint-Anastaise). Dogs accepted on a lead on the trail around the lake. Swimming in the lake, on the other hand, is not allowed for anyone, dogs included.
Lac du Bouchet (Haute-Loire). Pets accepted on the site. Keep your dog on a lead and away from the beach.
Lac de Lastioulles (Cantal). Dogs are not allowed in the swimming area. Elsewhere on the site, pets are accepted: keep yours on a lead.
One last habit: the signs at the entrance to each site are what count. And around the lakes of Aydat, Chambon, Pavin and Aubusson d'Auvergne, a lead is compulsory.
Essential precautions in the mid-mountains
Herds and guardian dogs on the summer pastures. On the Banne d'Ordanche, around the lakes of Aydat and Chambon or on the Plateau de Gergovie, you may come across herds and guardian dogs. Keep your dog on a lead so it doesn't go near them, and give the herd a wide berth. If a guardian dog comes towards you: stop, avoid gestures it may see as threatening (staring into its eyes, waving a stick), don't try to stroke it, put your backpack or a jacket in front of you, talk to it calmly and move away slowly.
Summer heat. In July and August, avoid hiking between 11:00 and 17:00. Go for shady forests (Tronçais, the wooded valleys of the Sancy). Take twice as much water as you think you need, half of it for your dog.
Ticks. More active in spring and autumn, especially at forest edges and in long grass. Check your dog when you get back from a hike. A preventive tick treatment is recommended. Lyme disease affects dogs too.
Vipers. Present in Auvergne, especially in sunny rocky areas. Stay on the trails, and don't let your dog rummage around in warm scree.
River and lake water. Cyanobacteria can appear in some rivers and bodies of water, especially in summer, and dogs are particularly sensitive to their toxins: they are exposed by drinking the water, swallowing deposits on the banks or licking themselves after a swim. Look at the water and the banks: at the slightest clump, foam or suspicious deposit, no swimming and no drinking the water for your dog.
To wrap up
Auvergne is a great place to be with a dog. The combo of a country gîte with a garden + hikes on a lead + walks around the lakes = a restful holiday for you and your dog.
To go further, take a look at the Auvergne with the family guide, the hiking in Auvergne page, or the unusual places to stay guide if you're looking for the perfect cabin for the two of you.
