The Puy de Sancy, roof of the Massif Central, above Le Mont-Dore
Guide6 July 20264 min read

Le Mont-Dore: the best things to do, summer and winter

The spa town at the foot of the Puy de Sancy, the roof of the Massif Central.

By Teddy L.

Founder, editor-in-chief

Le Mont-Dore is the Puy de Sancy, a valley full of waterfalls, a funicular from 1898 and thermal baths. Here are the best things to do there, season by season.


Le Mont-Dore: the best things to do

Le Mont-Dore is a small spa town sitting at 1,050 m, at the bottom of the Dordogne valley, just below the Puy de Sancy. The Sancy is the roof of the Massif Central (1,885 m), and it sets the tone: people come here for the mountains, the waterfalls and the hot water. Two seasons live side by side, hiking and the thermal baths in summer, skiing in winter. Here is what is really worth doing.

1. Going up the Puy de Sancy

The one you can't skip. From the Station du Mont-Dore, a cable car drops you at 1,790 m, then a staircase (864 steps, allow 25 minutes) leads to the Puy de Sancy at 1,885 m. Seasonal caveat: the cable car closes for works from 31 August to 18 December 2026, then reopens from 19 December 2026 to 21 March 2027 for return trips only: in winter, the summit staircases and the ridge paths are closed. 360° view over the volcanoes, as far as the Alps in clear weather. Fit walkers go up on foot (allow about 3 hours 30 of hiking from Le Mont-Dore, May to October). Arrive early in summer, the cable car fills up fast by mid-morning.

2. The valley of waterfalls

Several waterfalls can be reached on foot from Le Mont-Dore, from the steep climb to the family stroll:

  • La Grande Cascade: the classic, a 32 m drop, about 1 hour 30 there and back and 225 m of ascent on a steep climb. Every year from 15 November to 1 April, pedestrians are not allowed on its path.
  • Cascade du Queureuilh and Cascade du Rossignolet: to combine on the Ronde des cascades, a family walk of about 1 hour there and back from the car park of the cimetière paysager (landscaped cemetery), accessible with a pushchair.
  • Cascade du Saut du Loup: to round off the series.

Wear boots or shoes with good grip: the paths get slippery after rain.

3. The Capucin funicular

It is the oldest electric funicular in France, built in 1898 and listed as a historic monument. It climbs at 1 m/s up to the Salon du Capucin (1,245 m), from where several forest walks start. A Belle Époque curiosity as much as a way to gain height without effort.

4. The thermal baths and balneotherapy

Hot water is part of Le Mont-Dore's DNA. The Thermes du Mont-Dore, with their neo-Byzantine architecture, can be visited and offer a relaxation area. In neighbouring La Bourboule, the Grands Thermes take over. Ideal at the end of the day after a hike. In 2026, the Thermes du Mont-Dore open from 2 April to 4 November, the Grands Thermes de La Bourboule from 6 April to 31 October.

5. Treetop adventure, via ferrata and mountain biking

For thrill-seekers:

  • Mont Dore Aventures: treetop adventure courses, all levels.
  • Via Ferrata du Capucin: a cabled route fixed to the cliff above the valley, supervision recommended for beginners.
  • Sancy Sports Nature, to hire a mountain bike or set off with an instructor on an electric mountain bike or an electric scooter in the Sancy massif.

6. Hiking around

The Sancy massif is one of the richest hiking grounds in Auvergne:

7. Skiing in winter

The Station du Mont-Dore spreads its ski area between 1,200 and 1,850 m, on the north side of the Sancy. In 2025-2026, the lift pass gave access to some Super-Besse lifts, only when the link was open. Equipment can be hired in the village, at Locasport for example.

8. Close by

  • Lac de Guéry: the highest lake in Auvergne (1,250 m), fishing, autumn colours. Swimming, diving and boating are not allowed there.
  • Lac Chambon: two equipped beaches, supervised swimming in July and August.
  • The viewpoint over the Roches Tuilière and Sanadoire: two volcanic pinnacles facing each other.
  • A hot-air balloon flight at sunrise with Auvergne Montgolfière, above the volcanoes.

Where to eat

After the effort, truffade (sliced potatoes with melted cheese). At the foot of the slopes, the Table de l'Ours plays the Auvergne terroir card: truffade with Saint-Nectaire, pounti (a pork, chard and prune loaf), thick beef steak with bleu d'Auvergne.

When to come

From June to September for hiking, the waterfalls and the thermal baths. From December to March for skiing. May and October remain our favourite months: few people, gentle prices, and colours that change everything.

To wrap up

Le Mont-Dore is best experienced over two or three days without ever going round in circles: a day of summits, a day of waterfalls and thermal baths, a day around the lakes. For a place to sleep, see our guide on where to stay in Le Mont-Dore. To go further on the water, there is the tour of the volcanic lakes and the best spots for wild swimming.

Did this guide help you?

Written by

Teddy L.

Founder, editor-in-chief

Vichy → Clermont-Ferrand

Born in Vichy, I spent my whole childhood and teenage years in the Allier. I have lived on the Clermont-Ferrand side for more than ten years. Travel in Auvergne comes from wanting a media outlet that really talks about the region, without the tourist-office tone. I write and pick the places with a few local contributors.

See Teddy's profile →

Join 40 000 Auvergne lovers

We film the places in our guides for real. The behind-the-scenes is on Instagram.

Follow on Instagram

So you don't miss the next guide

Sign up for the newsletter and we'll send you the "50 Auvergne finds" PDF plus one short email a week.

Sign up (free)