Where to hike in autumn in Auvergne? Here are our 8 favourite loops, four on foot and four by bike or mountain bike: beech woods turning gold in the Livradois, the Sancy's glacial valley, Cézallier plateaux returned to silence, Velay sucs (old volcanic domes) sitting in the mist. From 5.7 to 35.2 km, from the family lake circuit to the very big day, with for each route the distance, the climbing and what the season really brings to it. It's our in-house selection, drawn from our hiking pages, and the logical continuation of our guide to autumn in Auvergne. Boots on, let's go.
Why autumn is the real hiking season in Auvergne
First, the light. The sun sits lower on the horizon, shadows lengthen, the landscape gains depth. A run-of-the-mill summer pasture in July becomes a painting in October, russet grass and a washed-clean sky.
Next, the mist. On autumn mornings, it settles in the valleys and plains. You climb, you go through it, and sometimes you emerge above a sea of clouds with the summits as your only neighbours. That kind of morning justifies the early alarm.
Then the calm. The car parks empty, the herds come down gradually, the paths are yours again. And in the background, from mid-September to mid-October, the deer rut echoes through the forests at dawn and dusk. We explain where and how to listen to it in our guide to the deer rut in Auvergne.
Finally, the beech woods. The beech is the king of the mid-altitude mountains here, and when it tips into yellow and then copper, whole massifs change colour. We've listed our favourite spots in 7 spots to see the gold of the beeches.
The 8 loops, from shortest to longest
1. From the Allier to the Puy de Mur, the harvest colours of the Limagne plain (5.7 km)
We start short, 12 km from Clermont-Ferrand, on a loop rated medium, which takes a dirt track on a very steep slope. Starting from Dallet, this 5.7 km loop (187 m of climbing) first runs alongside a lake in a wooded park, then the Allier river flowing past the foot of the Puy de Mur. You then climb by sunken lanes up the flanks of this hill that once carried vines.
In autumn, the trees along the bank and the hillsides take on harvest colours, and the viewpoint at the top lines up the Chaîne des Dômes, the Sancy, the Cézallier and the Limagne. Allow 1 hour 45 of walking, perfect for a half-day. The full page for the loop is here.
2. The grand tour of Lac du Bouchet, a maar in the forest (Velay, 7.4 km)
Lava and water met here to form one of the finest maar craters in all of Auvergne, now filled by a lake of almost perfect roundness. Waymarked mountain bike route no. 5 starts from the lake: 7.4 km and 152 m of climbing, rated very easy, about 45 minutes in the saddle.
In October, the forest ringing the lake is reflected in perfectly still water, and the effect is spectacular on a windless morning. On foot, the walk of under 3 km around the lake is suitable for the whole family. The route of the grand tour is on its page.
3. Discovering the high plateaux, stone and thatched cottages (Velay, 8.8 km)
This one is done by bike: a road circuit starting from the Place de la Mairie (the town hall square) in Saint-Front, rated very easy (8.8 km, 151 m of climbing, about 1 hour), with several stretches at 5 and 6% and two crossings of the D39 where you need to take care. It crosses the high plateaux of the Velay, a land of rugged and fascinating dwellings. The houses of the plateaux look like fortresses: squat shapes, small openings facing south, low walls built against the snow and the burle, that winter wind laden with ice. In these houses, a vaulted porch, the arcasse, served as a shared entrance for people and animals.
Autumn is the best window for this route: golden light on the russet grass, quiet villages, and winter that can be sensed without biting yet. The thatched cottages of Bigorre and Moudeyres, thatched roofs resting on stone, are worth the detour. The page is here.
4. Puy de Mathonière, a balcony over the Cantal mountains (Cézallier, 11.2 km)
From Allanche, you climb gently between dry-stone walls, with the Cantal mountains revealing themselves behind you as you gain height. Remember to turn round, it's the best part of the route. The loop is 11.2 km with 404 m of climbing, allow about 4 hours, plus 1 km there and back if you push on to the summit of the puy: the panorama over the Cantal volcano and the Cézallier uplands rewards the effort.
In autumn, as long as the herds are still there, their bells accompany you all the way back to the Place du Cézallier in Allanche. And the Cézallier in October is a lesson in low, raking light. Here is the detailed page.
5. Lac du Mont de Bélier, the Scotland of the Cantal (Artense, 14.4 km)
Our favourite loop for fans of misty atmospheres. After a fine view over the gorges of the Rhue, the path goes through hamlets that seem frozen in time (stop at the bread oven of Cachebeurre, just for the name), then drops towards Lac du Mont de Bélier, tucked between the Cantal mountains and the Sancy massif. A lake with a little look of Scotland, and on a misty October morning, that's exactly what it is.
From Saint-Étienne-de-Chomeil: 14.4 km, 456 m of climbing, about 4 hours of walking, passing through the Forêt d'Algère. The full page is here.
6. From the village of Chastreix to the glacial valley (Sancy, 18.3 km)
The big one on the Sancy side, and frankly our favourite of this list. From the village of Chastreix, the loop alternates forests, wetlands, pastures and mid-mountain terrain over 18.3 km and 535 m of climbing. The start is a bit tough, the rest rolls along nicely. The high point of the route: the orientation table of the Espace Naturel Sensible (sensitive natural area) of the Montagne du Mont, where the view drops over the ridges and the cirque of the Fontaine Salée valley, at the centre of the Chastreix-Sancy national nature reserve. The area is home to mouflon and chamois, binoculars welcome.
In autumn, the russet summer pastures and the open ridges make a landscape that holds its own against places much higher up. Dogs are not allowed, even on a lead. Plan for a picnic and 5 hours 30 of walking: the page is here.
7. Panoramas, sucs and forests, the grand loop of the Velay (21.6 km)
A suc is an old volcano without a crater, a dome of lava born around 12 million years ago, and the Velay lines up a collection of them that is unique in Europe. This 21.6 km bike route starts from the bridge over the Lignon, in Tence, and runs along quiet roads between forests and panoramas: 453 m of climbing, rated easy, about 1 hour 30 in the saddle, with the Mas-de-Tence orientation table facing the sucs and the panorama from the Montregard calvary.
Along the way, look up at the old houses: their distinctive roofs are made of phonolite slabs (lauzes), the stone of the sucs. And in October, the domes emerge from the golden forests like islands. The full route is here.
8. Les Cimes du Livradois, 35 km in the beech-and-fir forests (Livradois)
Mountain bike route no. 44, starting from Saint-Amant-Roche-Savine, is the really big one in this selection: 35.2 km and almost 1,000 m of climbing in the forests of the Livradois, where the beech-and-fir woods put on their October show, the gold of the beeches cut by the dark green of the firs. It's our pick for the strongest legs.
Let's be direct: rated very difficult, this route has to be earned, and in autumn the days get shorter. Allow 5 hours in the saddle and set off early. The route page is here.
The recap in one table
| Loop | Massif | Activity | Distance | Level |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| From the Allier to the Puy de Mur | Limagne | On foot | 5.7 km | Medium |
| Grand tour of Lac du Bouchet | Velay | Mountain bike | 7.4 km | Very easy |
| Discovering the high plateaux | Velay | Bike | 8.8 km | Very easy |
| Puy de Mathonière | Cézallier | On foot | 11.2 km | Medium |
| Lac du Mont de Bélier | Artense | On foot | 14.4 km | Medium |
| Chastreix, glacial valley | Sancy | On foot | 18.3 km | Medium |
| Panoramas, sucs and forests | Velay | Bike | 21.6 km | Easy |
| Les Cimes du Livradois | Livradois | Mountain bike | 35.2 km | Very difficult |
Weather and kit: hiking smart when the days get shorter
The Auvergne autumn is changeable, and that's just fine. A few simple rules are enough to enjoy it without nasty surprises.
Dress in layers. A breathable base layer, a fleece, a waterproof and windproof jacket. You set off in the cold of the morning, you walk in a T-shirt at midday, you put everything back on at the first windy pass. From October, slip a hat and gloves into your bag for routes at altitude.
Allow for the short days. In mid-October, you have about eleven hours of daylight; after the clocks go back, at the end of October, night falls before 18:00. Set off in the morning, allow plenty of margin, and keep a head torch at the bottom of your bag, it weighs nothing and it changes everything.
Respect the fog. On the plateaux and ridges, it can wipe out the landscape in a few minutes. Download the GPS track before you leave, carry a map, and know when to turn back: the summit will still be there next week.
Look after your feet. Wet fallen leaves, muddy paths, glistening stones: high-cut shoes with a lugged sole, and poles if your knees call for them on the descent.
Think hunting. Autumn is its season too. A bright colour on your bag or jacket, and a detour if a hunt is signalled at the edge of the woods.
Frequently asked questions
The FAQ
What is the most beautiful autumn hike in Auvergne?
Our vote goes to the loop from the village of Chastreix to the glacial valley: 18.3 km through coloured forests, russet summer pastures and a viewpoint over the cirque of the Fontaine Salée. For something shorter on foot, the walk of under 3 km around Lac du Bouchet is suitable for the whole family.
Where to hike in autumn when it's foggy?
Gain height. Autumn fog mostly sits on the plain and in valley bottoms: the Cézallier plateaux, the Sancy ridges or the Velay sucs regularly emerge above the layer. If the greyness holds at altitude too, fall back on a short loop in the forest.
When are the autumn colours at their peak in Auvergne?
As a general rule, the most colourful window runs from early October to early November, moving down from the summits to the plains. The high-altitude beech woods turn first, the Limagne brings up the rear. To plan your weekend, dip into our ideas for autumn outings.
Can you hike during the deer rut?
Yes, and it's even a bonus: from mid-September to mid-October, the forests echo at dawn and dusk. Stay on the paths, keep your distance from the animals, avoid any approach and leave the dog at home on those evenings.
Can you pick mushrooms while hiking?
Often yes, but not everywhere: picking depends on the forest owner and sometimes on local orders. In every case, only pick what you can identify with certainty. Our guide to mushrooms in Auvergne gets you started.
Is there a multi-day autumn hike in Auvergne?
Yes: the GR 30, the Auvergne lakes tour, suits early autumn well, before the days get too short. The paths and the accommodation are quieter than in summer.