The pitch
Auvergne with a baby is doable, but you have to choose carefully. Mountain paths show pushchairs no mercy. Nor do all inns accept young children. Here's our practical guide.
Where to sleep
Suitable accommodation
Rural gîtes: the best option. Equipped kitchen, space, quiet. Platforms: Gîtes de France and Clévacances.
Guesthouses (maisons d'hôtes): possible, but ask explicitly whether babies are welcome. Some refuse children under 3 (noise, breakages).
Hotels: go for 3-star with cots included. Avoid unusual stays such as bubbles and yurts (not suitable).
Walks that work
The easiest
- Lac Pavin loop (2.7 km, 1 hour, easy): the baby hike par excellence, in a baby carrier, because the path isn't suitable for a pushchair.
- Lac de Guéry: an inn on site for a break.
- Via Allier greenway (27 km along the river, from Billy): great by cargo bike.
- Forêt de Tronçais (wide paths): the one to pick in autumn for the colours.
In an ergonomic baby carrier
- Vallée de Chaudefour: from the Maison de la réserve, the main path leads to the heart of the valley in 40 minutes (about 1.5 km, 60 m of ascent), passing the waterfall of an iron-rich spring on the way.
- Cascade du Queureuilh (Le Mont-Dore, 1.9 km round trip, about 40 minutes): short, shaded, perfect for starting out.
- Puy de Pariou: a steep but short climb.
To avoid
Puy de Sancy on foot, Roche Sanadoire-Tuilière, traverses lasting several hours.
Where to eat
Auvergne restaurants are generally family-friendly, as long as you come early (12:00 or 19:00). Bistros and brasseries accept babies and often provide a high chair.
Better to avoid starred restaurants: a long meal doesn't fit a baby's rhythm.
What to visit with a baby
Good bets
- Vulcania: the park lends pushchairs free of charge, while stocks last. An intense day, plan for the nap.
- Volcan de Lemptégy: a 2 hour 30 visit in back-to-back stages, designed for children over 4. With a baby, take the baby carrier: pushchairs are not allowed on the little train, and children under 4 are not allowed on the two final attractions.
- Stade aquatique de Vichy Communauté (Bellerive-sur-Allier): paddling pool and learner pool under the blue dome, perfect for half a day.
- Le PAL (Saint-Pourçain-sur-Besbre, Allier): free entry for children under 1 metre, baby changing in the park's toilets, and the Babyswitch so you don't queue again when the little one isn't big enough for a ride.
- Markets: Salers on Wednesday mornings, the producers at the Grand Marché de Vichy on Saturdays. Stimulating, sensory.
Avoid
- Hikes of more than 4 hours
- Sites with lots of steps (Le Puy cathedral, the Notre-Dame de France statue)
- Cheese cellars (damp, draughts)
Practical tips
Health
- Paediatrician: emergency departments in Clermont (CHU Estaing, the university hospital) or Aurillac (Centre hospitalier Henri-Mondor d'Aurillac). Note down the number of the local SOS Médecins (on-call doctors) just in case.
Logistics
- Nappies/milk: available everywhere, but in small towns (Salers, Pailherols) the choice is limited. Stock up in Aurillac or Clermont.
- Infant formula: the supermarkets in the main towns have the full range.
Weather
Be wary of altitude. The higher you go, the cooler it gets. A baby fleece even in July.
Frequently asked questions
The FAQ
What's the minimum age for these tips?
From 4-6 months (an ergonomic baby carrier is possible). Below that, stay in one place more.
How many days is ideal?
4-5 nights. Less than that, you're rushing. More than that, you tire the baby out.
With a baby in a pushchair only?
It's possible, but limiting. Favour Vichy (parks, the aquatic centre at Bellerive-sur-Allier), Moulins (museums), the banks of the Allier. Avoid mountain areas.