The Thermes du Mont-Dore
Guide7 July 20268 min read

Thermal baths and spas in Auvergne

From Vichy to the Sancy, where to bathe in the volcanoes' hot waters

By Teddy L.

Founder, editor-in-chief

Auvergne is volcanic country, so it is hot-water country. We take you from Royat to Vichy via Le Mont-Dore, La Bourboule and Chaudes-Aigues, keeping day-visit relaxation spas clearly apart from medical thermal cures.


Thermal baths and spas in Auvergne

Auvergne is volcano country. And where there are volcanoes, there is water rising hot and loaded with minerals from the depths. The whole of the region's subsoil has been making springs bubble up for millennia. The Romans had already understood this: they bathed at Royat and Vichy. Two thousand years later, we're still at it.

The result: you have plenty of choice. Big spa towns with their Belle Époque architecture, relaxation spaces where you walk in for the day in a swimsuit, and medical cure centres overseen by a doctor. They are not the same thing, and we'll explain the difference right away, because it is the first question everyone asks.

We take you to five spa towns: Royat, Le Mont-Dore and La Bourboule in the Puy-de-Dôme, Vichy in the Allier, Chaudes-Aigues in the Cantal. We go through them one by one, from the most accessible from Clermont to the furthest.

Relaxation spa or thermal cure: don't mix them up

Two worlds live side by side under the word “thermes”, and they don't meet the same need.

The relaxation spa (or wellness area) means day access. You book, you come in a swimsuit, you spend two or three hours in the hot-water pools, the hammam, the sauna, the jets. No prescription, no doctor, no commitment. You go to unwind, alone, as a couple or with friends. It's the option we recommend if you're passing through for a weekend.

The medical thermal cure is something else. Three weeks of treatments prescribed by your doctor, partly covered by the Assurance Maladie (French national health insurance), aimed at a specific condition: rheumatology, respiratory tract, phlebology (vein disorders). You don't just turn up unannounced. You need a prescription and a file approved in advance. Spa town by spa town, indications and real budget: we've detailed it all in our guide to the thermal cure in Auvergne.

Both are often done in the same town, sometimes in the same establishment. Hence the confusion. Just keep this rule of thumb: swimsuit and bank card for relaxation, prescription and file for the cure.

Royat: the spa town on Clermont's doorstep

Ten minutes from Clermont-Ferrand, Royat has lived by the rhythm of its waters since Roman times. The Parc Thermal de Royat sets the tone from the moment you arrive: kiosks, shaded avenues, 19th-century façades. You can stroll there even without going to the baths.

For pure relaxation, Royatonic is what you need. Under a wooden dome, you find two large pools, indoor and outdoor, in water above 30 degrees, with jacuzzis, hammams and saunas. You go in for the day, in a swimsuit, with no prescription needed. A good bet when the weather turns on the volcanoes and you're looking for somewhere to warm up.

On the medical side, the Thermes de Royat welcome curistes (people taking the cure) for cardiovascular conditions and rheumatology. It's the serious side of the spa town, the one for supervised cures.

Le Mont-Dore and La Bourboule: thermal spas at the foot of the Sancy

These two spa towns echo each other in the valley of the young Dordogne, in the heart of the Sancy massif. You breathe mountain air there, and a water that treats mainly the respiratory tract.

The Thermes du Mont-Dore are worth the detour for the building alone: Neo-Byzantine hall, mosaics, columns. It's a film set. The speciality is respiratory conditions and rheumatology, with medical cures, but the establishment also offers shorter wellness packages for those who just want to try the baths without a three-week commitment.

A few kilometres away, the Grands Thermes de la Bourboule are known for paediatric cures: the spa town welcomes many children for treatment of the respiratory tract and skin conditions. Its water comes out at 58 degrees and is bicarbonated, sodium chloride and arsenical. Here too, short packages exist to discover the place.

A hike in the Sancy in the morning and a bathing session in the afternoon: that's the ideal autumn day in the area.

Vichy: the queen of spa towns

Vichy is the name everyone knows. The town built its reputation on its springs, and it shows everywhere: the galleries, the pavilions, the Parc des Sources with its covered wrought-iron promenade running from one establishment to the next. You can spend a whole morning strolling without spending a cent.

For a targeted moment of relaxation, the Spa Suite Vichy can be booked privately, for 2 to 12 people, for 90 to 180 minutes: jacuzzi, Finnish sauna and sensory shower just for you. There is also a treatment area for two, with massages and facials. It's the kind of place to keep for a break away from the crowds.

The Thermes Les Dômes Vichy, for their part, go for historic thermal tradition: it's the town's emblematic establishment, with its recognisable domes. Cures and wellness treatments sit side by side there. If you only had one water venue to visit in Vichy, this would be it.

A useful little reminder: in Vichy, you don't only bathe. You drink the water too. At the Hall des Sources, curistes have access to all the springs; without a Pass'Curistes, you can taste the water of the Célestins for free, on the east side of the building.

Chaudes-Aigues: the hottest water in Europe

Head for the Cantal, right down in the south, to finish on a curiosity. Chaudes-Aigues (the name doesn't lie: it means “hot waters”) is home to the Source du Par, which gushes out at 82 degrees. It is the hottest thermal water in Europe. In the Middle Ages, it was already used to heat the village's houses through a network of pipes, probably one of the first district heating systems on the continent.

If you're passing through the south of the Cantal, stop. Just seeing this water steam in the depths of winter, right in the middle of the village is worth the detour. The spa town offers wellness treatments and rheumatology cures, in a setting that is much more intimate than the big spa towns of the Puy-de-Dôme. It's the far end of Auvergne's thermal world, and it has its charm.

When to go, and how to plan it

Autumn and winter are when day-visit relaxation is most pleasant: when it's grey outside, a pool above 30 degrees changes everything. In 2026, Royatonic is open every day except 25 December, 1 January and during a technical maintenance closure in September, while the spa at the Thermes du Mont-Dore closes on 4 November and the wellness area at La Bourboule on 31 October.

For a medical cure, the 2026 season runs from 13 April to 7 November at the Thermes de Royat, from 2 April to 4 November at Le Mont-Dore, from 6 April to 31 October at La Bourboule and, in Vichy, from 16 February to 14 November at the Thermes Callou and from 8 June to 12 December at the Thermes Les Dômes. Book early, often several months ahead, because slots go quickly.

A tip we always give: don't slot your bathing day in right after a big meal or just before a long night drive. Hot water relaxes, but it also tires you out. Plan not to have anything demanding to do afterwards.

For logistics, remember that all of Auvergne's thermal bathing fits within a two-hour drive of Clermont-Ferrand. You can very well stay in the Sancy, dash to Royat one afternoon, and push on to Vichy the next day. Nothing is far. On the wellness side, the spa at the Thermes du Mont-Dore takes guests by reservation from 2 April to 4 November 2026, Monday to Saturday from 07:30 to 12:30, and the wellness area at La Bourboule by appointment, in the afternoon, Thursday to Saturday until 16 October, then Wednesday to Saturday until 31 October 2026.

Frequently asked questions

The FAQ

What is the difference between a spa and a thermal cure?

A spa (or relaxation area) is open for the day, in a swimsuit, with no prescription: you come to relax for a few hours in hot pools, hammam and sauna. A thermal cure is a three-week medical treatment, prescribed by a doctor and aimed at a specific condition. For a weekend, the spa is what you need.

Do you need a prescription to go to the thermal baths in Auvergne?

Not for relaxation. Royatonic or the Spa Suite Vichy welcome you without a prescription. However, a real medical thermal cure covered by the Assurance Maladie requires a prescription from your doctor and a file approved in advance.

Can you go to the thermal baths for just one day?

Yes, in the wellness areas. Royatonic is made for it, and the Mont-Dore and La Bourboule baths also offer short wellness packages, by reservation, to discover the baths without committing to three weeks.

What is the best time of year for a thermal spa?

Autumn and winter, without hesitation. When the weather cools on the volcanoes, a pool of hot water makes perfect sense.

Are children allowed in the thermal baths?

It depends on the venue. The Grands Thermes de la Bourboule have even specialised in paediatric cures for the respiratory tract. For relaxation, Royatonic doesn't admit under-6s in the baths area (except baby swimming sessions), and the wellness area at La Bourboule opens from age 15.

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Written by

Teddy L.

Founder, editor-in-chief

Vichy → Clermont-Ferrand

Born in Vichy, I spent my whole childhood and teenage years in the Allier. I have lived on the Clermont-Ferrand side for more than ten years. Travel in Auvergne comes from wanting a media outlet that really talks about the region, without the tourist-office tone. I write and pick the places with a few local contributors.

See Teddy's profile →

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